Gardening with the Whistler

by Melissa Volk

Melissa Volk is a writer and horticulture specialist with

Sunnyside Nursery, a retail garden center celebrating its 60th anniversary this year.

11/06/08

Money grows on trees in the shape of fall leaves

Autumn is my favorite time of year. The sunset of colors displayed by deciduous foliage represents to me a movement toward introspection, reflection and just getting cozy for winter. Those leaves represent a couple other things for the gardener: work and opportunity.

There is much work to be done in the garden during fall.  Prioritizing your "to do" list and making sure you intersperse some of the more fun things like planting, transplanting and dividing helps the list disappear, but I'd prefer to focus on the opportunities those fallen leaves represent. 

Deciduous leaves are one of the best soil builders around- little bronze and gold medallions in the world of black gold gardening. They have an ideal carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N) for composting. Soil bacteria can therefore quickly break them down.  This allows you to basically recycle nutrients, some of which your plant roots dug long and hard to find, for your plants next spring.  Leaves won't substitute for fertilizer, but they go a long way to improving your soil.

An easy way to take advantage of your leaves, second to the ideal of adding them to your compost bin, is to put the bag on the mower, sweep the lawn, and redistribute the resulting mulch on your beds. Mulching leaves by cutting them up is important for air and water permeability. Mulching them in the sense of applying as a top-dress is important for saving labor, providing foraging grounds for hungry birds over winter and keeping you from destroying your soil's aggregate structure by digging.

Soil aggregates, a main thing you're after in the first place, are formed through the action of your soil's flora and fauna--fungi, earthworms, springtails, beetles and such--on leaves and other organic matter they find in your soil. Sound a bit buggy?

Look past the hairy exoskeletons and multiple appendages and envision your soil's biota as an organized assemblage of construction machines eager to perform their assigned soil-building tasks. It's a 'will work for fuel' type deal. Thankfully, the leaves that can provide that fuel don't have to be compressed by tons of earth through millennia to be formed. They're lying on the lawn now.

If you still can't quite get over the bug thing, consider this.  Ninety-five percent of the insects in your garden are friendlies, working not only to improve your soil but to keep the pesky five percent in check.  (A great handbook on that five percent is available at www.snohomish.wsu.edu.)  Provide for the friendlies. They'll help your landscape. A cheap, easy way to do that now is to keep your leaves.

So, don't put those little bronze and gold beauties in the yard waste bin. Put the bag on your lawnmower and mulch them instead. Hey!  In a way, money does grow on trees!

10/23/08

Plant bulbs now to bring delight next spring

Every year I am thankful to other gardeners who plant bulbs for spring. It's always been a shortcoming of mine, though. Why? My biggest problem is probably delayed gratification. But, guess what…

You don't have to wait until spring! Find a nice non-draining container, get some pea gravel, and start some paperwhites inside now. Follow up with Amaryllis a little later, maybe some hyacinths. All have wonderful fragrance and beautiful flowers that you can enjoy soon. Follow these inside plantings with some outside, and you're well on your way to beautiful spring beds.

Placement has been my next biggest hurdle. Because roots reabsorb foliar nutrients, it's not a good idea to cut yellowing leaves, especially those of tulips, until they're brown and crispy. Try planting in the center of beds, among perennial ground covers or under deciduous shrubs, to cover this restorative process.

Another placement solution is not in the ground at all. Pack window boxes with 'King Alfred Dutch Master' daffodils for their majestic golden crowns each spring. Later, pull them, dry them in the sun a few days, remove faded foliage and store until fall. Perlite or vermiculite are good packing mediums that prevent moisture collection and rot. Store in a cool, non-freezing location to avoid sprouting. (This is what you'd do soon for dahlias if you don't want to chance it.)

It's hard to find something more irresistible than a cute pot holding a cheery spot of Muscari, with its little bell clusters in various shades of blue. And potted bulbs of any kind make great gifts. Another idea for placement is the dining room table. Plant bulbs for spring bouquets.

A second speed bump on bulbs is too many choices. I feel like I'm taking a standardized test when considering height, bloom-time and appearance. The KISS method helps. Mass plant one thing you like in one location. This even simplifies installation with only one planting depth.

Growers also offer a solution to the overwhelming nature of selection: blended bags of bulbs. These grab-and-goers are coordinated in color, height and bloom-time, and include a handy planting guide. They really make it easy.

Don't hesitate to branch out, though. I didn't get Allium azureum, a smaller corn-blue onion, a few years back and still regret it. This year I'm debating between A. giganteum, whose flowering globes evoke childhood memories of Candyland and lollipop trees, and a fun two-tiered allium, schubertii. Incidentally, if you've missed an opportunity with a particular bulb, ask your garden center for it in March or April when they're planning their fall bulb order.

The biggest letdown you potentially face with bulbs is an empty bed. And the largest contender for this is mostly within your control: damp, soggy soil.

Avoid putting bulbs in wetter areas. Compost can never be understated for proper drainage. Good organic fertilizer is a must, too. Bone meal is the box of choice for bulb planting, but a starter or all-purpose won't stop you from a gorgeous spring display. Also, remember sun requirements.

Delight yourself, your family, your neighbors, even the passerby next spring. Plant bulbs today!

10/09/08

Fall fertilizing a critical part of a healthy garden

In a former life, I worked for a soil ecologist researching the nitrogen cycle. I remember being surprised to find that bison 'give back' more from their urine than their manure. In hindsight it makes sense. Urine is essentially liquid nitrogen. Manure is compost. But it brings to mind the questions, "What is fertilizer, really?" and "What fertilizer should we really be using and when?"

Why would it be so ingrained that manure is great for gardens if it isn't fertilizer? Well, it is. Raw manure contains a lot of nitrogen. But using unprocessed manure will not only aggravate your neighbors, you won't like it either since the material will be full of weed seeds and can burn your plants.

Composted manure is the way to go, and not for the manure part. Whether it’s old horse pockies or the nice plant-based stuff you can buy at the nursery, good compost is worth every cent paid, every effort made. If you were to amend your soils with only one thing, it should be compost. And fall is a great time to apply it as a top dressing.

So what is fertilizer? Back in the nineteenth century, a scientist named Justus von Liebig identified three nutrients essential for plants: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). They've mined and synthesized these elements ever since, and these are what we look for on the nursery shelves. But, they are among many nutrients needed by plants in large amounts (macronutrients) and small (micronutrients). In natural fertilizers, you'll also see things like blood and bone meal that add these other nutrients.

The N-P-K ratio comes in many slight variations that really don't make much difference. I keep a natural all-purpose or starter and lawn food along with a synthetic. The first is for just about everything. Lawn food is for grass and anything else producing only foliar growth. The synthetic is for potted plants only--leaching is a concern otherwise. One might consider an acid-loving fertilizer, and some people like making their own recipe for things like bulbs. Generally, though, you don't need to get too specific.

When you fertilize is important. You don't want to stimulate a lot of tender new growth and just get it winter-killed. But fall is a great time to plant and new plantings need something to work off. Slow-release natural fertilizer is the answer. Your lawn will also want a natural feeding in November to support winter growth and help keep weeds out. A formula with iron will also help control moss.

One more point to consider is temperature. Synthetics sometimes only work at or above 65ºF. Talk to your nurseryman about alternatives for winter containers.

As we enter the season of fall planting, cleanup and preparation for winter, don't forget to think about food for your garden. Remember, your first investment should be in compost. Then, stock up on a good natural fertilizer for new plants and the lawn.

9/25/08

Here's to the little guys

A couple seasons ago I was doing a lot of work in the greenhouse. Chris, my manager, brought in some Chamaecyparis 'Boulevard' for me to clean up. They were small- for seasonal containers, adorable, and there was no way I was going home without one.

Mine started in its very own little pot, bought especially for it. I thoughtfully got a second pot the next size up, into which my 'Boulevard' cypress went the next season, and now wish I'd have bought the entire set for it. Currently it's in a larger pot with annuals and perennials, but when I soon repot for autumn it will go in the ground where it can eventually reach it's full eight feet.

I recently purchased Cham. 'True Blue'. Its foliage is the same silver-blue as 'Boulevard' but twice as long, and this "teacup" of a dwarf matures to only two feet. Several other dwarf conifers have found their way into containers or my landscape. My biggest mistake for the "landscapees" (common for undisciplined nursery workers like myself) is only having one- a situation I am beginning to remedy. My Cham. 'Snow', for example, with lovely white-tipped foliage that transitions inward to blue and further still to a lime-ish green in a mounded 24 inches, has two new companions.

Now is the perfect time to add dwarf conifers, as growers have them available in 'small' size for seasonal color. Amongst pansies and mums you may find varieties like 'Golden Globe', 'Rheingold' and 'Danica' arborvitae, 'Miniature Moss' false- and 'Baby Blue' sawara cypress, dwarf Alberta spruce, and 'Blue Star' juniper. If you wander to the actual shrub areas, both sun and shade, you'll find even more.

From yellow and bronze to silver blue, short and stout to soft and curly, the variety of dwarf conifers may surprise you. Size can max out at 18 inches or they may grow slowly to six or more feet. Label reading helps, but you can simply go with current preferences and container ideas- you'd be surprised at your ability to find places for the larger varieties later on.

Little conifers really play a big role to "spruce" up cool-season containers. Plant alone or with short evergreen ground covers. Add pansies and violets for color. Throw in a grass for height and texture (make sure its foliage withstands the winter, though). Put in some evergreen perennials and broadleafs. Maybe add ornamental kale or cabbage. The interesting shapes of some deciduous shrubs are also great for cool-season containers. 

Along with great plants, garden centers are likely to provide container classes soon. You'll get not only expert knowledge and inspiration but often materials to make your own container in a hands-on demonstration and enjoy a pleasant time with fellow gardeners.

There are some things I don't appreciate getting any smaller- cell phones, portion sizes at the grocery store.... But, the continuing ability of the horticulture industry to re-miniaturize conifers is one place smaller can definitely be better!

9/11/08

Help preserve our heritage- plant a fall vegetable garden

I finally made it to the state fair. Childhood memories of games, rides and vendors were revisited at a glance, passed by for the grown-up yearning for heritage. Pregnant nannies with kids squirming. Women spinning wool. Jars of jam backlit to form a delectable rainbow of captured summer sun.

And I was thankful. Thankful to that sect of society represented in the dehydrated dip mix, the demonstration on hand-milled grain. To those people taking time to keep our food rooted, our heritage alive.

Part of our heritage is, of course, the vegetable garden. It is my lifetime that has seen the divergence from everyone having one to most not knowing where to begin. It's my lifetime where things that look like food can't absolutely assuredly be called food due to processes like irradiation and genetic modification.

So, let me repeat these profoundly important words: Vegetable Garden. A garden of your very own. This fall. This winter.

How? Stop by your local gardening nursery and look for three things: classes, seeds and starts.

Classes on cool-season vegetable gardening will be held soon. Let the experts guide you on which crops and varieties to consider. Discuss things like how to use covers and build cloches to extend the season, soil preparation and overwintering crops.

Crops for autumn and even winter harvest generally fall into the leaf category--lettuces, spinach, arugula, swiss chard--which can still be started from seed. Depending on variety, you can branch out to things like brussel sprouts, too.

Add young herbs like parsley and cilantro for a nice salad mix. You can even plant seeds of broccoli and carrots and such for their hugely nutritious young greens. Don't forget to overwinter some, though!

A well-planned fall garden not only provides fresh produce as the winter solstice approaches, but also gives you the edge on spring. Plant root crops like beets, onions, garlic, leeks and carrots, and brassicas like broccoli and cabbage. Overwinter properly and be rewarded as early as March and April.

Seeds offer selection, but pay attention to number of days 'to germination' and 'to harvest.' You may have to add time depending on the crop and weather. Starts really give a nice jump and allow more spontaneity.

Starts should be coming in now. Consider regular visits to the nursery for best selection. Growers aren't great at providing a lot of options or quantity of fall veggies. Don't miss out.

Beyond classes, seeds and starts, look for cool products like seed discs. These are a 'just add water' type thing. For under five bucks, you can encourage brown thumbs to turn green with a rewardingly beautiful homegrown mesclun mix with barely a finger lifted.

As my boss can be heard saying, 'It's still summer!' The season of sun and rampant growth has much reward yet to give by way of produce and flowers. Before summer winds down, though, ramp up your vegetable garden for fall. Help keep our heritage, and your food, alive!

8/28/08

Dig in before fall and plant deciduous foliage

There are moments in every person's life that are so clear that the memories eventually seem more real than the moment itself. An autumn day, eleven years ago, was one of those days for me. I was doing fieldwork on a tallgrass prairie preserve. Animals were my focus, but I had to exact extreme discipline to look for deer through the fiery blaze of smooth sumac bursting, alive, across the hillsides.

The spreading nature of native sumac makes it unsuitable for a person's landscape, but it is a great icon for what autumn can bring to your beds--massive amounts of brilliant foliar color.

Act early! Every year I here people at the nursery talking in hindsight about the beautiful foliage of fall. Regretfully. As a missed opportunity. Not willing to pay for the empty branches and wait for the promise of what they'll give next year. 

Remember, though, that many plants with exceptional fall foliage offer beautiful attributes during other seasons as well. Smokebush, for example, adds plumes of texture with its namesake florets in summer. Nearly circular leaves add distinctive shape. And for varieties like 'Grace', with leaves the color of wine, it’s with only continued pleasure one watches the leaves change to a beautiful orange-red in autumn.

Oakleaf hydrangeas have intricate cone-shaped flowers on heavily veined leaves in another distinctive shape. Beautiful fall color is simply an extra. Deciduous Viburnums, like 'Brandywine' and 'Pink Dawn', offer not only gorgeous fall color, but attractive flowers and berries that ripen to red, pink and blue, too.

Chokecherries promise colors like crimson to apricot ('Elata') and red and purple ('Brilliantissima') during fall and beautiful glossy berries you can enjoy in jams and jellies. Beautyberry, blooming lavender flowers now, will set solid lavender-pink berries in fall that keep to branches through winter after dropping their leaves in a blaze.

Horticultural varieties of sumac may still be best kept in containers, but they're certainly worth the pot you put them in. Staghorn's laceleaf variety has soft fern-like foliage on an intriguing network of branches exposed fully after its intense fall display of yellows, oranges, and reds. The stout, upright berries are not to be overlooked, either.

Burning bush, named for its magnificent fall display, is worth a year of space simply for its autumn appeal. It makes a terrific backdrop to a spring display--pretty green foliage holding its secret until fall. It also makes a great hedge, perhaps along a wooden fence to maintain seclusion through winter.

There are many more deciduous plants, like dogwoods and blueberries, that offer amazing fall foliage. And if you enter the world of evergreens and fall flowering and fruiting shrubs, annuals and perennials, you can make your autumn garden remarkably memorable rather than, as often is the case, easily forgotten.

Deciduous foliage, though, is the key. It captures the transient nature of autumn. It is the essence of the season. Bring home this foliar beauty of fall before it's here. Lay the groundwork for some amazing autumn memories now!

8/14/08

Yarrow: One (or ten) is never enough

Some plants you can never have enough of. Yarrow is one of those for me.

I got my first yarrow from a friend- plain ole' Achillea millefolium. Fern-like leaves support white flower clusters (umbels) that bloom early summer through fall on stems that sometimes surpass two feet. My native yarrow has spread some, and while I've cut flowering stems to expose other plants, I've never actually removed it.

My second yarrow, A. m. 'Terra Cotta', whose flowers are aptly named, came with my first season at the gardening nursery. I've added 'Lemon Yellow Form', awesome for its short (< 6 inches) stature and light lemon flowers, and 'Walther Funcke', with gold-centered red flowers that captures many neighborly comments along the line, “Oh, what's that? I want some!” I want more, too.

So what is it about this plant? It's pretty. It makes nice cut flowers and dries well for arrangements. It's evergreen here. If you compost, it's an activator. It attracts a myriad of butterflies and a host of beneficial insects.

Further, yarrow is a natural mosquito repellent. Burn the leaves or rub them on (though if you're sensitive it can irritate the skin) to keep the mosquitoes away without dousing yourself with deet.

Reflected in its name, which means 'to prepare', yarrow is one of the oldest and most well-used plants in herbal medicine. It's used as a cold remedy, for toothaches and as an astringent. It's taken for pain relief and headaches. It promotes sweating. And it's been used toward many other ends.

Foremost, though, yarrow is gardener friendly. It's easy to grow. It requires little fertilizer (the ones I fertilized this spring could use staking but the ones I didn't stand strong). It's drought tolerant and deer resistant. It has an extremely long bloom-time. And it's low maintenance.

Other than taking it back to clumps during fall (providing divisions) to control possible spread, you can deadhead to prolong bloom-time. Cut the last blooms during fall clean-up or leave them for structure and interest during winter. Done.

From a design aspect, yarrow is appealing for its ferny leaves, which add texture without compromising flowers. The flowers add texture, too. While the palate of colors is tempting, white is nice for its ability to make other colors in your garden pop.

And a palate there is. Foliage ranges from silvery to bright and dark green. Flowers range from white, soft 'Apple Blossom' to bright 'Cerise Queen' pink, lavender 'Lavender Beauty', and wine 'Summerwine'; to soft 'Anthea' or bright 'Moonshine' yellow, salmon 'Salmon Beauty', orange and crimson 'Red Beauty' to fire-engine 'Fireland' red. Flowers of most varieties fade for more subtle color variation, too.

So if you're looking to add some color, something for summer, fall, or even thinking back for late spring interest, looking for something to bring inside, something to add texture, to attract butterflies or inquisitive neighbors... look no further.

Even if you already have yarrow, you can always get more. After all, there are some plants you just can't have enough of!

7/31/08

It's a bug-eat-bug world out there

Beneficial insects are not a new concept. That ladybug and lacewing larvae feed wildly on aphids or that parasitic wasps wrap up pesky caterpillars isn't news to many gardeners. But did you realize that creating habitat for beneficial insects also creates beautiful beds?

A huge step toward encouraging beneficial insects, for example, is to have flowers blooming year round. That's a compromise! And the best flowering plants to have are those with a prolonged flowering time. Hum... another toughy. Encouraging beneficial insects, you'll find, turns out to be one of those solutions that continues to unfold unforeseen benefits.

Sunflower, coneflower, coreopsis and goldenrod are wonderful summer bloomers that are easy picks simply because of their beauty. If you choose single flowered over double flowered varieties, asters will also bring in the big gun bugs.

Dill, fennel, parsley, coriander, anise and mint are handy culinaries to have on hand. Beneficials like lady bugs, lacewings, big-eyed bugs (don't worry, they're small!), tachinid and hoverflies love them, too. Plant your herbs among or bordering other plants to add landscape interest and recruit help for your pest problem at the same time.

Yarrow is great for its leaf texture and variety of colors and heights. Its long bloom time and drought-tolerant nature make it perfect for any sunny bed, but it’s also a fantastic for beneficial insects.

Annuals like alyssum, nasturtium, and marigolds (French, Tagetes patula, and African, T. erecta) are must-haves. Kept under control, so is chamomile.

Flower power is only the beginning. Composting supports a wider diversity of beneficial insects, fungi, and bacteria that prey on nematodes, larvae and other pests along with improving soil for your plants. Mulching walkways with a porous material like bark chips provides a living place for predatory beetles while providing an attractive solution to reducing weeds and soil compaction. Eye-pleasing hedgerows of undisturbed perennial plantings double as homes for assassin bugs and spiders. Clumping grasses provide overwinter sites along with great structure and texture for the landscape.

The number one thing, though, you can do for beneficial insects is to NOT KILL THEM. Many a beneficial creature has lost its head due to the narrow-minded philosophy “Any good (blank) is a dead (blank).” Don't let fear fuel unnecessary spraying, environmental degradation and emptying of the pocketbook.

Educate yourself! We all know what a ladybug looks like but how many recognize their alligator-looking larvae? You plant pollen and nectar producers for beneficial adults, but it's the larvae that undermine the pest world. Larvae are the aphid, mite, nematode and egg eaters. A great beneficial identification pocket guide is now available at http://ipmnet.org/Pocket_Guide_of_Natural_Enemies.pdf.

Though I've mentioned a few good plants, the list for attracting beneficials is long.  http://www.farmerfred.com/plants_that_attract_benefi.html lists plants for particular beneficials. If you're willing to invest (hold your breath) a dollar, the WSU Extension has a great publication with a long list of plants for the purpose at http://cru84.cahe.wsu.edu/cgi-bin/pubs/PNW0550.html. And never forget, of course, the library.

It's a bug-eat-bug world out there. Join forces with the good guys and improve your garden's beauty at the same time.

7/03/08

Keeping your garden yours

I went to an inspiring seminar this spring held by Snohomish County. A cohesive underlying message was to keep the good stuff in your garden. They spoke of rain barrels and composting and such, but there are tons of ways to reuse things in the garden.

Remember that thundercloud plum I called the arborist on this spring?  I borrowed an idea from work and left the main trunk (girdled) and lowest branching network. We put a kiwi ('Issai'- a small, fuzzless self-fertile variety) at the base and a trellis framework on top. By the end of the summer I may be imploring my husband to do like my boss did and build a raised planter box around the critical root zone. We'll see.

Nurseries offer classes on creative container gardening. From rusted-out children's wagons to frames of dilapidated chairs and tables or the questionable second use of a "pot" whose trap the plumber couldn't clean, you can bring new life to old items as creative planters.

A neighbor of mine buried a cast iron tub for a water garden. A friend creatively used a shadow box for hanging colorful glass globes and potted annuals. Deep plates can be mounted to form tiered birdbaths. Partly buried sections of tree trunk topped with inverted plastic bowls painted red with white spots make adorable toadstools that serve a dual purpose as yard art and seats for kids. Reuse of materials is limited only by imagination.

Getting to the green, that seminar introduced some great composting ideas. One was a fence (pictured at www.havenillustrated.com/Resource_Conservation.html). Mount inverted cattle fencing outside sturdy posts set 6 inches apart. The trough composts branches up to an inch in diameter (trimmed, obviously). Layer in green leaves, grass, etc., and even the composting material looks nice. Leave 5 inches clearance at the base for compost to fall out. In front, plant grapes or other climbers. Put a trellis on top and you've got yourself a wildlife habitat, composter, and self-feeding climbing support all in one.

A helpful hint I gained regards coffee grounds. I'd heard to compost them, but was always afraid of the acidity. Turns out grounds have to be 25 percent of your overall soil content before affecting acidity. Aside from eliminating the dump factor, composting your (and the espresso stand's) grounds attracts earthworms to speed composting.

There are other ways to keep your greens. Bury them. When creating new beds, a terrific alternative to setting sod out for the gas-guzzling yard waste trucks is to set it (probably overkill, but I would invert it) a foot and a half under. Mix compost with the soil going back in and not only do you eliminate the backbreaking beating of soil from sod, you've created a fantastic fluffy footing for your new bed.

As your garden begins to resemble a jungle instead of a well-maintained landscape, and as you go through the garage and attic for a delayed spring cleaning, challenge yourself. Rather than think, "How quickly can I get rid of this?" think, "How can I use this again?" 

6/19/08

Lessons from the garden

I just returned from my grandma's in Oklahoma. Much of our time was spent in her yard-- a little rectangle, nestled among thousands of rectangles, that has formed a substantial cornerstone in my life through its invaluable lessons.

Begin. Grandma started gardening only at the incessant urging of a friend. They finally pinpointed Grandma's reluctance to begin--the idea of dirt under her fingernails. A pair of gloves united Grandma to what would be her release from the myriad of life's frustrations and the hobby that, with failing eyesight and faulty knees, is carrying her through retirement.

Grow memories. Grandma loves to point out the rose that Papa, now gone, special ordered for her birthday. A Mother's Day hydrangea. A purple smoke bush thank you. She's planted many gifts that have grown into cherished memories. Some more than others. Every time I look at the crape myrtle that stands where a cherry tree once was, I chuckle slightly. I was told probably 10 times not to climb that tree, but obstinately thought it could hold my weight....

Be adaptable. I moved several plants for Grandma during my visit. I planted geraniums where, for decades, impatiens grew until a winter storm nearly destroyed an oak that shaded her front yard. Each year more annuals find their way into pots at Grandma's. Container gardening is less demanding. Gardens change. Grandma enjoys that part, too.

Diligence pays. In this fast-paced, techno-crazy world, the garden is one place where a little education and hard work still pay off.

Smart investments aren't necessarily the fun ones. There may be fields of black gold below, but on top Oklahoma dirt is red. Red clay. Red sand. Grandma has regularly amended her soil over the years. A fist-size ball of rouge clay I found, which miraculously escaped Grandma's attention, unequivocally attested the value of her small but steady investment to the soil.

Always start something from scratch. Grandma has a dozen recycled pots sitting alongside her house with annuals she started from seed. She loves to start from scratch and watch things grow. I do, too, but have a conservation spin. Buying seed casts a vote among the giant corporations that says "Stop killing diversity."  Buying organic seed says "Stop genetically splicing our produce and patenting away the right to collect seed from what we've sown."  Granted, my seed might be cross-pollinated and I might not want what it grows, but I should be able to find out.

Never stop trying something new. When cleaning out her water fountain, I pointed out the mosquito larvae Grandma was raising. I suggested either goldfish or dunkers. I pushed the fish further for their algae grazing. I never would have pegged Grandma as a fish fanatic, but it's really sweet how excited she is about her new finned friends.

Patience and persistence. Not too little, not too much. Keep up. Take time to enjoy.... The list of lessons a garden can teach is long. Above all, though, remember:  Gardening is a gift that grows much more than flowers.  Take time to pass it on.

6/05/08

Pursuing the dusky dream

When I was a toddler, our neighbor developed a rabbit problem. No amount of fencing worked. She’d wake up to find bite after bite taken out of her glowing tomatoes, still on the vine. My father solved the problem when, sipping his morning coffee, he happened to look out the window. There I was on hands and knees, taste-testing her prize-winning passion.

Growing those homegrown beauties hasn’t been as easy as eating them. I planted my first real vegetable garden in Seattle. Envisioning bookcases lined with dusky red jars, my four-can yield did not meet my midwestern expectations.

Suitable varieties like Early Girl and Better Boy helped immensely, though I keep an open mind and try something new each year. Actually using planting tips helped, too. I now plant deep (strip and plant 2/3rds to 3/4ths of the stem) and remove flowers until 12-18 inches tall.

This year, I planted in mounds for higher soil temperature. I also want to try planting sideways by stripping lower leaves and planting the stem in a 2-½ inch furrow.

Tomatoes need even, consistent moisture. Among other problems, inconsistent watering can crack fruit and interfere with calcium transport, causing blossom-end rot. Adding lime to your soil will also help prevent the latter. And remember, organic fertilizer (avoid high nitrogen) promotes health as well as growth.

Keep soil off plants to avoid disease. Water at the base and avoid direct rainwater, if possible, to prevent soil splash. Mulch. Stake (look for collapsible or sturdy cages).

Watch for disease. Remove infected leaves immediately and identify the issue. Don’t replant tomatoes in infected areas for at least three years. If your best tomato spot is your only spot, replace soil seasonally, to 2 feet if you’ve had problems.

My mom’s boyfriend attributes his tomato success to attention. He talks to his plants. Scientific studies have shown increased agricultural yields when classical music is broadcast over the fields. Harmonics or love--you decide.

Red Mulch has been shown in university studies to promote earlier and higher (up to 20 percent) tomato yields. Like any mulch, it helps retain soil moisture. Like black plastic, it increases soil temperature. Its specific color also reflects far-red light into the plant, the theory behind its production boost.

Though I have fond memories of searching the forest of leaves for hidden treasure, I’m going to try pruning. Keep a foot of soil clearance. Remove suckers--side branches in the crooks of the main branch and leaves--weekly. For indeterminate plants (vine-like growth with flowers along stems), leave the bottom-most one or two side-stems. Some say sucker pruning isn’t necessary for determinate plants (bushy growth with fewer, shorter side-stems and flowers at the end of stems).

About a month before first frost, pinch off top growth and remove flowers to promote fruit maturation. Use shade cloth to avoid scalding the fruit if leaf cover is scant.

I’m still not actually using all the canning supplies I scoured garage sales for in anticipation of the mountains of fruit I expected from childhood memories. But, someday I’ll get there.   

5/22/08

Making the lavender leap

When you consider the list of attributes of lavender, rather than ask the question, "Should I plant it?" you'll begin to wonder, "When do I stop?"  And though about now you're swimming in homegrown geraniums, herbs and summer vegetables, trailing petunias and gladiolus and toad lily bulbs, it's worth giving a little notice to this quiet, but quite amazing perennial.

Lavender attracts butterflies. It makes good cut flowers, it's deer resistant, evergreen, smells great, tastes great... at least with some culinary skill. It has medicinal and therapeutic uses. It's crafty and fun to touch. It's drought-tolerant and easy to prune. Size is manageable, and you can find multi-season bloomers and many that will bloom a second time after shearing. The only difficult part about lavender is making your selection.

There are three main types- Spanish (Lavandula stoechas, sometimes called French lavender; the one with pineapple-looking blossoms topped with wing-like bracts), English (L. angustifolia), and the hybrids, or Lavandins (Lavandula x intermedia), which generally bloom mid spring through summer in the given order. Varieties abound, other species are around, and there are so many crosses you will undoubtedly find some that don't fit anywhere and others everywhere.

Lavender is easy care and low maintenance. Soil drainage is very important. Give as much sun as possible. Keep airflow in mind. Plant with a little organic fertilizer (they like it lean) and water regularly their first year. After that light mulching with compost and perhaps an occasional summer watering should suffice. In a pot, use a slow release organic fertilizer and repot yearly with fresh soil. Cut flower wands encourage a second bloom, and prune leave stems by about one-third along with flower wands after flowering to keep fit and trim.

Its tough nature makes lavender a creative landscape solution. It makes a great low hedge and can provide attractive color in places you can't get other things to grow during the hot summer. I go out of my way to walk by a fence-line planting where the white pickets accentuate the color of both foliage and flowers and the lavender largely eliminates edging.

A little research or knowledgeable nursery staff member helps if you have a specific use in mind. Plants have been bred for superior medicinal and aromatherapy uses (L. ang 'Vera'), oil production (L x int. 'Grosso'), flowers that fall off easily for collecting buds (L x int. 'Provence')....

But live and learn is an easy motto. I've enjoyed my dried cuttings from last year immensely even though they regularly sprinkle flowers. This year I'll find a better variety for dried arrangements. I'll also harvest on a cool morning to maximize fragrance: the plants release their essential oils to cool off.

I'm still low on the learning curve with lavenders and think I'll visit one or two lavender farms this year for schooling, but I've finally made the leap. As little as I currently know I at least know this. No matter why or how you choose your lavender, any lavender is a good lavender for an addition to your beds.

5/08/08

So much more than meets the eye

Since when did people have to feel childish, or even cliché, when they actually do stop to smell the roses?  Sight is just the first of your senses a garden should provide for. Try smelling or even feeling out rather than scoping out your next garden purchase.

You may not be looking for the rotting carcass smell of voodoo lily that beetles find irresistible, but there is an amazing selection of plants to add delectable aromas to your beds. Be forewarned of Daphnes. As soon as you smell one, you'll want to add it to your cart.

Osmanthus is an easy-going evergreen whose flowers have a wonderful fragrance. Oregon Grape, too. Lovely smelling blossoms are a late-winter treat of Sarcococca, an evergreen for shade. Lilac florets don't last long in a vase, but there are so many, you'll never miss regular cuttings for their fragrance. The smell of Asiatic lilies is intoxicating, and these summer bulbs can still be planted if you hurry.

Fragrance is well recognized in horticulture, so let’s consider the more cryptic qualities of taste, touch and sound.

No one has ever truly experienced a carrot unless they've crunched in to one just pulled from the ground. An organically grown vegetable garden will give you phenomenally flavored produce. You'd do well to wait a couple more weeks this year to plant tender annuals, though, unless you're willing to provide protection.

Touch often doubles with sight as texture. It is a simple pleasure to run your hand through a stand of Mexican Feather Grass. To feel the fuzzy foliage of yarrow, the feathery leaflets of dill, fennel, or asparagus. It's daring in a primordial sort of way to touch a Gunnera leaf.

Touch also often doubles with smell. Ever experience the green pepper scent of Viburnum 'Dawn'?  Lemon Verbena, Lemon Thyme, or the lemon scent of 'Wilma Goldcrest' Cypress?   The curious scent of Chocolate Cosmos?  Or even the peanut buttery smell of Honey Bush when you rub a leaf?

Sound is probably the least thought-of attribute a plant can provide. Wind is a resource that can be utilized. Many choose sturdy hedge plants to block the wind. Others choose shrubs whose boughs bend in the breeze and whose leaves provide that relaxing rustling sound for sitting in the summer sun.

Sound takes on a new dimension when you consider provision of wildlife habitat. Dense shrubs, feeders and shallow baths encourage an amazing diversity of songbirds when you're diligent. Well-designed ponds can create a breeding place for frogs. Even the buzz of bees around your lavender is a treat, in part because it means you're sitting quietly long enough to appreciate it.

Many plants appeal to multiple senses. Rosemary, for example, has long-lasting pretty blue flowers and evergreen foliage that smells and tastes great.

Do yourself a favor. Next time you're at the garden center and you see a sign that says "smell me," do. Close your eyes to shop. Take home something that appeals to more than your sense of sight.

4/24/08

Go wild, plant natives for natural beauty

Whoever thought it was hard to be a good citizen didn't think of the coming week. Celebrate Washington's Native Plant Appreciation Week, April 27 to May 3 by planting a native. It turns out even horticulturists have an eye for natural beauty, so you'll likely find a good selection at your local nursery.

The dangling clusters of hot pink flowers send nursery-goers scurrying for red flowering currant each spring. This deciduous shrub will set speckled blue berries that are edible but not quite palatable. The bright yellow clusters of Oregon grape's sweet smelling flowers have an impressively long bloom-time. This evergreen occurs as a shrub and tall ground cover. Both develop pretty blue berries that, again, are edible but a little tough on the taste buds.

For actually edible native choices, consider thimbleberry, salmonberry, wild gooseberry or evergreen huckleberry. Thimbleberry likes to move around, so foresight is important. The oval-leaved is the most readily available of our native blueberries, offering health-laden fruit, adorable bell-shaped flowers and brilliant autumn foliage akin to nursery-stock blueberries. I have nodding onion for its delicate blossoms and the zest it adds to meals. Native Americans literally warred over good fields of great camas, but I can't see destroying the beautiful tall blue flowering stems with a market around the corner.

A deluge of dainty blossoms is snowberry's summer treat, but its horticultural claim to fame is its solid white (or light to dark pink in nursery varieties) berries that cling to its deciduous stems through winter. Oceanspray has huge summertime flower clusters. Mock orange has dogwood-like blossoms. And there are, of course, native dogwoods.

The list of landscape-worthy native shrubs is long. Trees too. But let’s press on to perennials. Western trillium is an amazing spring-bloomer for your shade beds--cluster for impact. False Solomon's seal has gracefully arching branches. Erythronium is a lily genus with spectacular species for sun. Add shooting stars, native penstemon and lupine species, red columbine, Pacific bleeding heart... and you'll begin wondering if we're making the native list up.

Native ferns, grasses, rushes and sedges offer a huge selection for seasonal or year-round structure and texture. Fill in with groundcovers like kinnikinnick, dwarf dogwood, wintergreen, wild ginger and redwood sorrel.

Excluded here for space, scientific names are important for proper recognition. To be a purist, seek out original genetic stock. Native plant sales are usually held in spring and autumn. Though nurseries sometimes carry horticultural varieties, even these are beneficial in ways non-natives aren't. If you don't have time to be picky, just pick a native. Or be picky about being picky and focus on native stock for more rare species.

Invasive plants are the worst enemy to native plants in our remaining natural areas. Most, unfortunately, were introduced via intentional planting. Keep invasives out of your garden and secure removals in waste bins--the idea is to dispose, not disperse. Washington State's Noxious Weed Control Board is a great source for identification.

To further contribute to Native Plant Appreciation Week, look up a conservation-minded organization like the Washington Native Plant Society. Websites of groups like this list activities being held this week and year-round to protect and promote native plants.

Our native flora is truly a bountiful garden. Take time this week to appreciate, protect and promote it. Go wild. Plant natives! 

4/10/08

Life and death of a cloud of pink

I told myself this winter, after cleaning up yet another branch downed from a windstorm, I would give it one more spring to bloom and then make the call to the arborist. I wanted to give my Thundercloud plum one more chance to billow its namesake blossoms. As soon as it did, though, my heart softened.

When they bloom, it seems that every single node on a Thundercloud plum is occupied with flowers. Street block sidewalk plantings of this early bloomer are intoxicating. They reliably cause a rush of customers to the nursery in search of "that tree that's blooming all over town."  The more astute will note the burgundy leaves beginning to unfurl at peak bloom. And occasionally the nursery-goer is in search of the "two-trunk" variety with one blooming pink, the other white. (The white is the rootstock that put out an unchecked branch. They may peacefully coexist or the rootstock may eventually kill the sought after graft.) 

Trees that may be mistaken for Thundercloud plum include an early-blooming cherry and a couple other ornamental plums, Newport and Blireiana. All share an early bloom of purplish pink flowers eventually crowded out by purple leaves.

To delineate plums from cherries my co-worker, Chris, likes to use overall form. The rounded canopy of a plum resembles its fruit. The cherry has a wide, lower growth habit. Newport produces a fairly reliable crop of small and squishy yet tasty plums compared to the basically fruitless Thundercloud. (If you're interested in purple foliage and fruit, look for Hollywood.)

Blireiana has double blossoms, but an increased proclivity for disease has been its horticultural downfall. Be on the lookout for the new ornamental plum, Crimson Pointe. It offers a lighter shade of early pink flowers with the same great foliage in columnar form. 

The plethora of early flowers and striking foliage of Thundercloud plums are wonderful. But I have to find it in my heart to cut one down, so let’s look at their weaknesses.

Thundercloud's gorgeous leaves attract the attention of more than people--aphids love them, too. Following the aphids, though, are tons of ladybugs (if you aren't familiar with the knobby black larvae with orangish stripes, or the metamorphic balls they form, then look up a picture- don't kill the friendlies), which even out the score.

Midsummer you'll get a light showering of leaves with holes punched through them as if little tree elves were making confetti, proving the tree is prone to shothole. This fungus is normal and not worth trying to treat, but because of aphids the dropped leaves are a sticky mess. Thunderclouds can also be a bit obstinate when it comes to pruning.

Round two of flowering trees has begun and Thunderclouds are ready to let loose a rainstorm of petals. Of its list of faults, the increasing reliability of mine to lose limbs is the only thing that will anchor me to my scheduled death sentence. I will miss my Thundercloud and the ladybugs it brings. But facts are facts. Trees have a lifespan just like everything else. My Thundercloud was probably planted in the late 1930s. It's reaching its day.

So, you are my witness. I will make the call this morning. I think I'll go down to the nursery later today to look at Magnolias.  

3/27/08

Hardy early bloomer has nice features

by Melissa Volk

I do most of my shopping from the storeroom shelves, but when in the checkout line I occasionally find myself browsing other customers’ carts. I wasn't even in line at the nursery the other day, just walking by, but had to stop. "Ooh!  What's that?"

“Fringe flower,” the man answered. Thankfully he was the type to encourage rather than take offense at my inquiry. I glanced at the label, asked if there were more (there weren't), and left the man with a quick praise for his selection.

Just by looking, I could tell this shrub was an evergreen (maybe the fact that it was early March had something to do with it but I was going off intuition, not reason). My online investigation confirmed. It also confirmed my suspicion, based on the starburst strap-shaped flowers, of a familial relation to witch hazel (Hamamelidaceae). I didn't expect, however, that the attributes of this shrub would just keep coming.

Loropetalum chinense is a shrub after the Northwest heart. It likes acidic soil with high organic content. It likes a decent bit of water its first season (water well when the top three inches of soil dries to establish a deep root system), and should probably get some water during summers thereafter. Loropetalum's size is manageable, maturing to 6 feet tall by 5 feet wide. Pruning isn't necessary, but if you want a nice bushy shape you can pinch off shoot tips after flowering. Most varieties aren't agreeable toward hot afternoon sun, wanting light shade to only part sun. Most varieties are hardy for our area, but do check before buying. While I did find some varietal differences in growing conditions, most fit this general picture.

The main flowering time for Loropetalum chinense is late winter to early spring, though you may find occasional flowers year round. Blossoms span a nice spectrum of color, with varieties in white, yellow, pink or red. (My nosey eyes had spotted a fuchsia shade of purple.)  The shrub has nice foliar color of purple to burgundy mixed with green, but again color varies with variety.

Any plant that provides winter interest is a winner in my book. Hamamelideceae thus receives several ribbons from me. For its late winter flowers and beautiful fall display, I already have a witch hazel (Hamamelus sp.). Winter hazels (Corylopsis spp.) are great for their winter flowers, also. I have seriously considered Fothergilla for its plethora of spunky spring flowers and brilliant fall leaf display, even though winter isn't its strong suit. Loropetalum just gave me one more reason to respect the Hamamelid family.

I am always leery of walking the tackiness tightrope when I lean over another's shopping cart. But this bout of basket browsing landed me a real gem. Evergreen foliage with nice color contrast. Fun flowers at a time of relative scarcity. Manageable stature and maintenance. And I can put it on the east side of my house. Now, if I can only find one that's not already on someone else's cart!

3/13/08

The almost unattainable lawn

by Melissa Volk

My eleven-year-old niece was recently accosted by one of these "perfect lawn" maniacs.  She was picking up dog doo when this man barged out and laid into her so hard he made her cry. His reasoning? Picked-up poop would leave a dead spot on his precious lawn.

Good grief! I'm not arguing the frustration of finding abandoned piles of poop when reaching for the morning paper. That's a different story. My gripe is with the spoilt cry for the unattainable or, more appropriately, unmaintainable perfect lawn.

Lawns are a great prelude to an attractive garden. But when you try to make the actual lawn a focal point, you enter an environmental and maybe a social nightmare. Consider a balance.

Focus on grass being the primary component of your lawn, but allow for a normal succession. Even some broad-leaved plants like daisy fleabane that join the lawnscape are eye-pleasing. Go for green, go for continuity, but relax a little on content.

How? Start with soil. You want 6 to 8 inches of nice loamy soil, preferably compost. And plant roots need air, just as they need food and water. Tag-team occasionally with a neighbor to rent a dethatcher and soil aerator. Hand tools are available for the more physically fit and those wanting to instill a good work ethic in their children.

Another chore that's nice to delegate is mowing. Regular haircuts, not buzz-cuts, also add to your lawn's health. 

Fertilize (with a slow-release organic product rather than inorganic pollutants that shed with the next rainfall into Puget Sound) in March-April, June, September and November.

Occasionally add lime. Water when necessary with long soakings versus short sprinkles for deeper roots.

Spot seed during spring and autumn. If starting over, first see to the soil then consider seed over sod. Sod is usually grown in and for full sun and its soil component is often worthless. Seeding will allow you to locate (try your local nursery) a viable weed-free perennial mix suitable for your growing conditions that you can reliably obtain in future years for a good match.

Spring and autumn also can mean moss duty, ideally done with rake and sweat, but there are environmentally passable products for the less-than-diehards.

Good soil and the above-mentioned maintenance are your best defenses against weeds, but they will require some undivided attention. If your back doesn't allow for digging you can invest in targeting spot herbicides. Blanket spraying general herbicides, however, is never a good idea, nor is Weed and Feed. They'll cost you, and our ground water, in the long run with reduced efficacy.

Lawns are nice, but don't sacrifice environmental integrity and social grace for an emerald shade of green. The solution to an attractive lawn isn't hounding the dutiful doo-scooping neighbor kid. Nor is it a continual barrage of environmental A-bombs. It's good soil, proper watering and fertilizing regimes, and occasional weeding, dethatching and aerating.

Most importantly, an attractive lawn requires a balance between ideals and realities.

Personally, I think everyone would be better off if the magic green carpet actually was unattainable.